Best Survival Saws: Types, Features and How to Use Them Safely
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Quick answer: a folding saw is the best all-round choice for most people because it is rigid, safe to carry and cuts well. A bow saw is better for cutting a lot of firewood, a pocket chainsaw packs the smallest, and a wire saw is a lightweight backup. A saw is usually safer and more efficient than an axe for most camp tasks, so it belongs in every kit alongside a knife.
When you need firewood, shelter poles or a way to clear a fallen branch, a saw does the work with less risk than an axe and a lot less effort than a knife. There are four common types of survival saw, and each trades weight, strength and cutting speed in a different way. This guide explains the differences, what to look for, how to cut safely and the products we previously reviewed.
Types of survival saws
Folding saw
A folding saw has a rigid blade that locks open and folds into the handle, much like a folding knife. It is compact, safe to carry and cuts on the pull stroke or both strokes depending on the design. For most people this is the best balance of size, strength and cutting speed, and it is the type we recommend first.
Bow saw
A bow saw has a tubular frame holding a long, replaceable blade. It cuts quickly and handles thick logs well, which makes it the best choice for firewood and for a base camp, a vehicle or a home emergency kit. The downside is size: even a take-down model is bulkier than a folding saw.
Pocket chainsaw
A pocket chainsaw is a short chain with a handle or strap at each end that you pull back and forth around a branch. It fits in a shirt pocket and is cheap, but it needs room above and below the branch, wears out faster and is easier to use badly. Wear gloves, because the chain can bite and cut your hands.
Wire saw
A wire saw is a thin braided wire with a loop or ring at each end. It is the lightest and cheapest option, and it can slip into a pocket or fishing kit. It is slow, it can snap, and it works best on small branches. Think of it as a backup, not your main saw.
Features to consider
Blade material and teeth
Look for hardened steel blades that stay sharp and resist rust. Coarse teeth cut green, wet wood faster but leave a rougher cut; finer teeth work better on dry or dense wood. Some saw blades are replaceable, which is a good feature in a long-lived kit.
Handle and grip
A non-slip handle protects your hands when they are wet, gloved or cold. Check that the grip leaves room for gloves and that the handle guards your knuckles on the stroke.
Locking mechanism
On a folding saw, a reliable lock stops the blade from closing while you cut. Test it before you rely on it, and make sure it releases without trapping your fingers.
Size, weight and storage
Think about where the saw will live. A folding saw fits in a go bag or glove box, a bow saw suits a car trunk or garage kit, and a pocket chainsaw or wire saw can go in a small survival tin. Many saws come with a sheath, which keeps teeth from damaging other gear.
Durability
Buy from makers who offer a warranty or replacement blades, and read reviews that mention real use on thick wood. Cheap blades can bend, break or lose their teeth in a hurry.
Models we previously covered
An earlier version of this article described the Friendly Swede 8-inch folding saw and a second folding saw from Lnchett, the Sportsman and Skyocean pocket chainsaws, a generic stainless steel wire saw and two bow saws, the Bahco 10-24-23 and the Sven Saw. We have not re-verified their current specifications, so check blade length, blade replacement options and recent reviews before you buy. We will add current, verified links later.
How to use a survival saw safely
- Wear gloves and eye protection, especially when cutting overhead branches or snapping dry wood.
- Secure the wood. Brace logs against a stable support, or cut on a sawbuck, so the piece cannot roll or kick back.
- Keep your free hand and body out of the line of the blade, and cut away from your legs.
- Let the saw do the work. Use long, even strokes and avoid forcing the blade, which can bind and bend it.
- Cut dead, dry wood for fuel. Live trees are hard to cut and hold a lot of moisture, and on public land you may not be allowed to cut them at all, so check local rules.
- Never cut a branch that is under tension, such as a bent branch pinned by another, without thinking through which way it will spring.
- Clean and dry the blade after use and keep it in a sheath.
If you plan to heat or cook with the wood you cut, pair this guide with our notes on the types of wood that burn the longest and our guide to kindling and tinder.
Saw or axe?
Axes are great for splitting, but they are heavier, more dangerous when you are tired and require more skill to use safely. For most people, a saw for cutting and a small hatchet or axe for splitting is the safest combination. A good Swiss army knife or fixed blade rounds out the set.
Matching the saw to the job
- Cutting small branches for kindling and shelter poles: a folding saw or wire saw is enough.
- Cutting firewood from logs a few inches thick: a bow saw or a large folding saw is much faster.
- Clearing a fallen limb from a road or trail: a bow saw, if you can carry one, or a folding saw with a long blade.
- Cutting where space is tight or overhead: a folding saw is easier to control than a pocket chainsaw.
- Keeping something tiny in a pocket or fishing kit: a wire saw or pocket chainsaw, with realistic expectations.
Maintenance and blade care
A saw only works as well as its teeth. After each use, wipe off sap and moisture, dry the blade and store it in its sheath or case. If the saw has replaceable blades, carry a spare, and swap in a fresh one when the teeth are dull, bent or rusty, because pushing a dull blade tends to cause slips. Never try to sharpen the teeth on most hardened-tooth survival saws unless the maker says it is possible. Check the locking mechanism and pivot on a folding saw from time to time, and tighten any loose hardware.
Building a simple saw kit
A practical setup is a folding saw in your go bag, a bow saw with a spare blade in the car or home emergency kit and a pair of work gloves and safety glasses stored with them. If you want a backup, add a wire saw to a small survival tin. Practice with each one on dead branches in your yard so you know how they perform before you need them.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which type of survival saw is the best option?
For most people, a folding saw. It is compact, strong and quick. Choose a bow saw if you need to cut a lot of firewood, and a pocket chainsaw or wire saw only as a backup.
What are the advantages of a pocket chainsaw?
It is tiny and cheap, so it fits in almost any kit. It is slower and trickier to use than a rigid saw.
What are the advantages of a folding bow saw?
It cuts quickly through thick wood and uses replaceable blades, but it is bigger to carry.
What are the advantages of a folding hand saw?
It offers a strong blade in a compact, lockable package that is safe to carry.
How does a survival saw compare to an axe?
A saw is generally safer and easier to control, and it cuts with less effort. An axe is better for splitting and chopping, but it needs more skill and strength.
Is there any reason to have more than one saw?
Yes. A compact folding saw for your pack and a bow saw for home or the car gives you coverage, and a wire saw takes almost no room as a backup.
Bottom line
Start with a folding saw you trust, add a bow saw if you will cut real firewood, and keep a pocket chainsaw or wire saw as a backup if you have the room. Practice cutting before you need to, wear gloves and eye protection, and keep the blade clean and dry.
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